(peaceful music)
- [Narrator] Located between
the Americas and Europe and Africa,
the Atlantic is the second largest ocean on Earth.
This huge expanse of water
covers hundreds of millions of kilometers
and gives on heavenly panoramas
bordered by countries with rich histories.
A Canadian family passionate about life on the water
is taking to the ocean for the first time.
France and Luc accompanied by their daughter Chloe,
have chosen to cross the Atlantic on their new catamaran.
In the next hour you will witness the voyage
of a family leaving in search of their dream
with little sailing experience.
For over 53 days they will cruise to adventure,
visiting France, Spain and Portugal
before reaching the Caribbean,
the island of Saint Martin to be precise.
At least that's the plan,
because the unpredictable weather could change everything.
They will learn the rudiments of navigation
while having the opportunity to gaze out
over an infinite ocean.
(alarm beeping)
(ominous tones)
(thoughtful music)
- [Narrator] Luc is a masonry contractor.
And France is a painter who makes a living from her art.
Using the experience in running an office
acquired over the years, she is responsible
for the logistics of preparing
for the crossing of the deep blue sea:
clothing, grocery list, insurance.
In short, organizing the whole trip.
She's doing everything in her power
to prevent any unpleasant surprises
on their first contact with their new boat.
- [Narrator] The idea of buying a catamaran
was born during a visit to the Annapolis Boat Show
in Maryland, USA in 2015.
The couple fell under the spell of a model
of the Lucia 40, the newest 40 foot sailing catamaran
from French boat builder Fountaine Pajot.
This vessel was their ticket
to an even more accessible dream,
set to become a one of a kind experience.
In less than a year, this catamaran, presently a miniature,
will bring these Canadian mariners to their destination.
They agreed to call it Les 4 Voiles.
This ambitious project ended up being a family cruise.
Having finished her bachelors in geography,
with a minor in native studies,
Chloe is hungry for learning experiences
and readier than ever to broaden her horizons.
Now 24, she contributes her knowledge
of the environment, curiosity, enthusiasm
and a desire to take on a huge challenge with her parents.
These three adventurers will join together
for one of the most memorable voyages in their lives.
We have to emphasize how unusual this plan is
to take on over 4,000 nautical miles
without any sailing experience.
Only with the expertise of a professional skipper
will they reach their destination.
Bernard Lamonde, a qualified and experienced captain,
will be there to coach the family along the way.
He will be the one who can guide them across the ocean
and get the sailboat safely to Saint Martin.
France and Luc chose to cross the Atlantic
on their catamaran by their own means for the same price
Fountaine Pajot could have delivered the boat.
But the seagoing experience was much more tempting.
They have planned several stops.
First, the couple are preparing to fly from Montreal
to La Rochelle in France.
The catamaran is tied up in the port of Minimes
patiently waiting for them.
The multi-hold sailboat will then descend
the west coast of Europe
with the first stop at A Coruna in Spain.
It will continue on to Lisbon, Portugal.
Then to the Canary Islands, getting closer to the equator.
It will then sail straight to the warmth of the Caribbean,
the island of Saint Martin.
(uplifting music)
- [Narrator] France and Luc leave together
to start their time on the vessel.
But Chloe and Bernard will join them in France
a few days later to help with final preparations.
After a long night on the plane,
they land at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris.
They get to the Montparnasse train station
with almost a dozen suitcases,
ready to take the TGV, a high speed train.
By TGV our two sailors travel from Paris to La Rochelle,
almost 500 kilometers away in under three hours.
The La Rochelle station opened on January 12th, 1878.
This magnificent train station
belongs to France's national railway line
and is the meeting point for the lines
connecting Bordeaux, Nantes and Poitiers
as well as serving the vast seaport of La Rochelle.
Stefan, a Fountaine Pajot representative,
welcomes our two valiant travelers
in order to steer them to Poitou-Charentes, home of
this European catamaran construction company's factory.
Once at the factory, everything seems larger than life.
They're even more excited than when they arrived.
This was the very place
where their multi-hold vessel was designed.
Before setting foot in the water,
France and Luc visit the entire factory
to uncover the hidden side
of constructing a sailing catamaran.
At the same time technicians
were getting ready to move the boat to the Port of Minimes,
in La Rochelle, to raise the mast.
The multi-hold vessel is so huge
that a hydraulic transporter was specially designed
to bypass obstacles.
The mast is installed at the shipyard
by a team from Fountaine Pajot,
who monitors the vessel until it is in the water.
Stepping a mast is a complex process
and installing the cables requires flawless expertise
if the sails are going to deploy properly.
Tension has to be adjusted perfectly.
Given the catamaran's value,
this stage takes clockwork precision.
Depending on the options buyers chose,
the price of the Lucia 40 varies
from 500,000 to 600,000 Canadian dollars.
The Port of Minimes in La Rochelle
is the largest pleasure boat port
on the Atlantic coastline of France and all of Europe.
An impressive number of boats are berthed in the port.
But only one looks exactly like
the model they fell in love with a few months earlier.
- [Narrator] They go aboard for the first time
and familiarize themselves with the facilities,
which are now all theirs.
- [Narrator] That night they will finally sleep in a cabin
on the Lucia 40 with a view of a blazing sunset
and sailboats as far as the eye could see at the dock.
The Lucia 40, a large 40 foot catamaran
is known for its leisure areas, its open spaces,
the light it lets in and its sporty feel.
(relaxing music)
France and Luc, curious,
explore the boat from the deck to hold
and fall under the vessel's spell for a second time.
It will be perfect
for their unusual voyage to the Caribbean.
(gentle music)
The next days won't be especially restful.
A host of preparations still need to be made
to keep from falling behind on their initial schedule.
When they get up, the air is fresh, pure and intoxicating.
The frenzied preparations continue
while France puts together a few meals,
checks the grocery list
and organizes her schedule for the week.
Luc is getting used to his new working environment,
including the helm, GPS, electrical circuits and sails.
He enjoys getting to now the navigation equipment
that will steer them to their destination.
(uplifting music)
Provisioning the multi-hold vessel
is one of the first tasks to plan.
Before they leave on the first leg of their voyage,
the grocery store is an essential
and somewhat fantastical destination.
This first load of groceries,
the most expensive of the whole crossing
is crucial to outfitting the interior of the boat.
Purchasing all the basic ingredients
and obtaining the necessities for four people.
Besides buying all the meals for the crew,
a list is made up to separate out the precooked meals,
fresh and canned food, condiments, deli meats,
beverages, desserts, spices and cleaning products.
The list is long and detailed
and takes stringent planning.
The shopping also includes purchase of any gear
not already on the catamaran.
(Parisian music)
At the Port of Minimes in La Rochelle,
the Capitainerie control tower welcomes ships
according to regulations.
Around 15 officers
coordinate all the activities of the port.
France and Luc, who want to discover
the fabled old port of La Rochelle, rent bicycles
and set off to admire the incredible landscapes
along with the cultural
and historical attractions of the city.
There are over 230 kilometers of walking and bicycle trails.
While strolling through the narrow streets of the old port,
they are astonished by the vibrant maritime history
stored in the largest lighthouse on the Atlantic coastline.
Some of the port infrastructures and various fortifications
are part of the heritage of the city of La Rochelle.
And numerous pleasure boaters still visit
and revisit them today.
These include the Saint Nicholas, la Chaine
and la Lanterne towers.
The truly historic old port of La Rochelle
was founded in the 13th century.
Its towers and fortifications stood up to the siege of 1628,
a significant event in the wars of religion of the era
ordered by King Louis XIII to reestablish Catholic worship
in the region.
The terraces, French creperies
and small cafes overflow with tourists
making a stop off in the city.
This splash of local color gives way to 100 or more
highly qualified professional firms
and leads towards streets lined with archways,
part of the traditional architecture
of the former trading cities.
The aquarium across from the old port
in the heart of La Rochelle
is the second most visited in France.
It houses over 12,000 animals
from a total of 600 species spread throughout
83 recreated natural environments and tanks.
It's the ideal spot to discover the sea
and its mysteries and to visit in under two hours.
The Earth's fresh and saltwater marine flora and fauna.
- [Narrator] Jean's task is to make sure
that the boat complies with the initial purchase order.
He checks whether everything listed on the bill
has really been installed on board by the shipyard team.
If any elements or parts are missing,
the family can deal with it before leaving La Rochelle.
- [Narrator] Just a few hours before their first test cruise
in the catamaran Les 4 Voiles.
Jean has very valuable advice on sailing.
(hopeful music)
- [Narrator] This encounter has been
one of the most reassuring ones so far.
Jean has a lot of experience
and is very good at instilling confidence.
He knows how to give sound advice and guide the new owners
of the Fountaine Pajot sailing catamaran
about what to do onboard in order to sail safely.
Whether for handling the helm,
getting into position or stopping,
his last recommendations serve as reminders
to get the couple back into the swim of sailing.
- [Narrator] The first trip to the gas station
is a valuable one.
France and Luc learn a few new techniques
and improve on those they already know.
This stopover was a definite necessity
because of the imminent departure from Spain.
To be totally ready the Lucia 40 is filled to full capacity
with over 300 liters of diesel fuel.
That's the equivalent of over 50 hours of travel
using the motor and nine Canadian dollars an hour
in terms of costs.
- [Narrator] After seven years of experience
with a motorboat on Lake Champlain on the U.S. border,
they are getting used to their new multi-hold vessel.
Some techniques are the same of course,
but the extent of the voyage requires different steps
and more training.
- [Narrator] After this first excursion on the high seas,
France and Luc's stress goes down a notch.
With a clearer vision of what awaits,
they can finally get a better handle
on the challenge of the next few weeks.
They are much more confident and this time with Jean
gives them answers to a whole host of questions.
- [Narrator] Arranging a cruise of this scope
of an Atlantic crossing takes a lot of organization
because they have to think of everything
without having any experience.
Happily they're being coached and supported
by a large team of professionals
working hard to make the preparations even more complete.
Three days later the whole crew is finally together
when Chloe and Bernard arrive at the Port of La Rochelle.
- [Narrator] They also settle into the catamaran.
It's love at first sight.
After all, this is the vessel
where they are going to spend all their time
for the next two months.
Bernard immediately steps into his role
and uses this family gathering
to talk about his vision for the crossing.
First on the agenda is safety.
For this, the family's first experience,
he also talks about the need to start with short stages
before the transatlantic crossing itself
in order to ease comfortably into the routine
before launching into the grand ocean adventure.
At dawn the sailors start getting ready
for the official departure, scheduled for a few days hence.
About 387 nautical miles separate them
from their first stopover in Spain.
Bernard consulted the GPS and weather maps
to monitor sailing conditions before preparing the sail.
(hopeful music)
When a ship leaves a country,
it has to pass through local customs
and indicate its next destination.
The exit paper becomes the entry paper for the next country.
If the next destination is still unknown
and the ship is not registered anywhere,
it has to fly a yellow flag when in international waters.
The yellow flag indicates
that the ship is not yet registered in the next country.
It will be taken down and replaced
by the flag of the country of arrival
only when the owner
has finalized all the customs formalities.
In some countries, a fine may be imposed.
- [Narrator] Bernard continues with his advice
and warns the new captain
that jellyfish and seaweed
may accumulate in the water filter.
This has to be checked daily.
One last shopping trip is made to acquire the courtesy flags
of each country on the planned route
as well as to buy everything on the technical list
that was drawn up the Luc and added to by the skipper.
(bright music)
When they get back, the crew plans for 50 extra gallons
or 225 liters of diesel in the hold.
If the wind isn't inclined to blow enough,
this extra stock will keep them
fairly independent on the high seas.
- [Narrator] Onboard the catamaran Les 4 Voiles
the chemistry is instantaneous.
During the day they make up a real crew.
At night, the atmosphere is always pleasant and friendly.
The day starts very early on the multi-hold vessel.
Before the grand departure,
everybody has to learn sailors knots.
Bernard teaches them the clove hitch,
figure 8, bowline and cleat knot.
These knots are often used in sailing
and are all easy to untie,
despite the high mechanical tension on the lines.
(laughing)
They immediately put what they have learned to use
during a few navigation tests in the Pertuis d'Antioche.
Before they raise the sails they have to make sure
that everything is properly battened down onboard,
every object has to be tied down firmly and safely
so that it won't be lost or cause any injuries or damage.
- [Narrator] The Pertuis d'Antioche is a straight
between an island archipelago and the European mainland,
leading to the historical monument of Fort Boyard,
nicknamed the Fort (speaking in foreign language)
or Fort Useless.
- [Narrator] Fort Boyard is a fortification
built on a narrow sandbank, the Longe de Boyard.
(men speaking in foreign language)
- [Narrator] The first time the mainsail is raised
is very impressive, but it is even more
an opportunity to test the crew's roles
during the maneuver.
After all, the mainsail will be raised
frequently during the crossing
as well as on shorter legs of the voyage.
(group cheering)
- [Narrator] It's the last night before the grand departure
on the first leg of the voyage.
The family stocks up on energy for France and Luc.
All the efforts of the previous year
are becoming even more real.
(thoughtful music)
The Canadian family and their mentor
ready themselves to leave France at first light
after double checking the weather conditions.
- [Narrator] It's going to be a festive day for France,
who turns 48 on their first day on the deep blue.
- [Narrator] The water level in the La Rochelle basin
is still very low and quite calm.
On the French coastline, tides are impressive
and can vary by as much as six meters in just one day.
The phenomenon caused by the attraction of the moon
and sun on the seas and oceans is fascinating to watch.
(energetic music)
The crew casts off about 8:15, a few minutes after sunrise.
Everyone at their stations,
the sailors watch the Port of Minimes
tranquilly disappear into the mist behind them.
From La Rochelle they set sail toward A Coruna in Spain,
past the island of Oleron,
they will face the Bay of Biscay
with its reputation for being a navigational challenge,
to reach their first stop off.
(thoughtful music)
(speaking in foreign language)
Bearing 243 degrees toward the south,
thick fog blurs the vision projected by the sea.
The crew has to be vigilant, their eyes peeled.
Fresh breezes and very long waves barely a meter high
gave the crew time to get their sea legs.
Generally it takes crew members on a boat
about three days to get used to
the vessel's rolling motion in the waves
and to standing their watches at the helm.
Bernard shares the five components a sailor needs to master
in order to survive at sea.
Hunger, fear, fatigue, waves and cold.
On the sea and ocean,
waves take hours and sometimes days to gain and lose height.
Waves are formed by the duration, strength
and surface area touched by the wind.
The wind influences the height and direction of the waves.
The frequency of a wave is equivalent to the distance
and speed of the waves.
More frequent waves make sailing less comfortable,
even if they aren't necessarily very high.
Later, at the end of the day,
Bernard tries his hand at fishing.
But with no success.
The fish aren't biting on this first attempt.
At this time of year, sole, herring, haddock
or even squid might have graced their plates.
(thoughtful music)
Groups of dolphins follow the catamaran,
swimming and playing all around.
It's a magical moment.
Although they expected
to encounter dolphins during the voyage,
they hadn't expected to see them this early.
Since their first stop is A Coruna,
the oil will very possibly have to be changed at sea.
Since winds of 20 to 25 knots are in the forecast,
they will be able to stop the engines
long enough for them to cool.
It takes nearly an hour to change the oil in the two motors.
The ship's log for the first day shows perfect conditions
with an average speed of seven knots,
totally under sail.
All the more reason to celebrate France's birthday
to the hilt.
- [Narrator] As night falls,
magnificent surprises rise from the depths
to make the moment even more memorable.
The dolphins join the party and keep them company.
- [Narrator] Sunset marks the start of the first night watch
for the adventurers.
France, Luc and Chloe lead off,
while Bernard rests a bit
to prepare to face the forecast strong winds.
Actually even when not at the helm,
he always keeps an eye and ear
tuned to the action on the boat.
A routine is essential to finish the day
and prepare for sailing at night.
At sundown they have to make
a general inspection of the boat,
checking the sails, hull and lights.
They also have to make sure
that everything is securely battened down
and no lines are tangled.
The routine ends with a gaze all around the horizon
while the light remaining at dusk allows
and a check of the night's weather forecast.
Sailing at night is an extraordinary experience
and quite intense.
Every noise has to be explained.
Distances aren't the same anymore.
And sensations are out of proportion.
You have to watch out for all vessels small and large,
for despite precision technology,
they aren't always visible.
This is especially true of fishing boats,
which don't have to put out an AIS signal.
Still, the AIS system is very welcome at night.
It transmits two types of information,
a dynamic visual map of trajectories,
which helps prevent collisions with other boats
and data on the ships detected,
such as their name, registry,
physical characteristics, destination
and predicted date of arrival.
During a watch, besides keeping a visual lookout,
you have to have an eye on the radar,
which provides more information.
It detects all metal ships or other sailboats
equipped with a radar reflector.
The operation of the navigation lights
has to be checked on every watch,
the electronic instruments,
and the voltage in the bank of service batteries.
All these procedures
make sailing at night pleasant and safe.
Sailing at night is an incredible experience
for anyone who wants to discover mysterious flora and fauna,
shooting stars, the Milky Way, pure silence and peace,
a moonlit path over the waves.
But in bad weather, it's a whole other adventure.
And on little sleep
the experience is all the more demanding.
(gentle music)
- [Narrator] Sailboats move under the action of the wind.
Mainly when it is coming from the stern.
Out on the water, the wind may not always
be to the sailor's advantage
and they may meet a headwind.
Sailing into the wind
is also known as sailing close to the wind.
Tacking is a technique that allows a vessel
to advance despite a headwind,
by turning the mainsail from side to side on a tight angle.
In other words, you zigzag around a headwind.
The tank of diesel is still 3/4 full,
which means that the boat still has fuel to move on its own
for up to three days and provides a lot more freedom
in deciding when they have to stop.
- [Narrator] The mainsail is 58 square meters in area,
much larger than the genoa.
Since winds of 20 to 25 knots are expected in the evening,
this immense sail has been raised to the masthead.
(tense music)
So far the second day at sea has been extremely calm,
even more so than the previous day,
with neither a fish nor even a boat on the horizon.
(hopeful music)
With good wind, sun all day and the mercury
showing a temperature of 18 degrees,
conditions are perfect for the crew
to get used to daily life at sea.
A first unexpected gust challenges the crew
and the techniques they have learned.
Bernard tries to let them react on their own
while coaching them the best he can.
This is real field experience.
There wasn't much time to prevent a rough jibe.
Jibes take place when a tailwind changes the tack
or position of the boat in relation to the wind.
On the mainsail the tack is the position of the boat
in relation to the wind.
For example, a ship is said to be on the port tack
when the wind hits the port side first.
But when the wind changes direction and becomes a tailwind,
hitting the mainsail at a different angle
and unexpectedly changing the tack,
it can be very dangerous, especially in high wind.
This time the crew decides to completely lower the mainsail
and they succeed.
(thoughtful music)
- [Narrator] A well deserved supper
of peas and chorizo sausage
before an evening that is expected to be somewhat hectic.
As forecast, the Bay of Biscay
doesn't spare the crew and they decide to protect themselves
from the 30 knot winds
and waves nearly two meters in height.
The boat draws nearer the shore
and everyone sleeps lightly.
Early in the morning the water is calm and the air peaceful.
The sunrise is incredible, just behind the Spanish coast.
The shore alternates between steep cliffs
and small mountains on the one hand,
beaches and plateaus on the other hand,
sprinkled with thousands of little orange lights,
the signs of civilization, a city, A Coruna.
A Coruna is located on the Iberian Peninsula,
surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea
and the Atlantic Ocean in the historical nation of Galicia.
Not far from their destination on the A Coruna estuary,
20 or so fishing boats have come out at dawn
into the silent bay.
A Coruna is well known in Europe
as a fishing port.
And the fresh cargo of fish being unloaded
is evidence of this fact.
Around 8:00 a.m. after the catamaran passes Spanish customs,
Bernard places the international yellow flag
with the red and gold of Spain.
The crew has officially arrived in port.
They can now drop anchor in the estuary.
It's the family's first stop since leaving La Rochelle,
a chance to fill up their water and gas tanks
and rest for a few hours before leaving again.
- [Narrator] All pleasure vessels need routine maintenance.
After desalting the boat, the crew has to think about
changing the oil.
After every 100 hours of travel using the motor,
the oil has to be changed, just as you would do for a car.
With a brand new motor the captain needs to do it
after the first 50 hours.
Fortunately it's a fairly easy job,
especially with Bernard there to give directions.
He also inspects the air filter,
the level of the oil in the transmission,
the level of coolant and the water filters,
which also need to be checked regularly on both motors.
The port, located near downtown A Coruna,
is considered to be a strategic port,
a favorite spot for ships in transit,
because of its favorable location.
The Bay of A Coruna encircles an islet
on which the incredible Castle of San Anton
was erected in the 16th century.
This former fortress houses the archeological museum,
which tells the region's story,
thanks to an array of objects
that have stood the test of time.
- Okay, I'm in the entry.
Should I turn right, right now?
- [Man] Do you know where you are?
It's beside the control tower.
Besides the control tower, we have the station petrol.
- Okay, we have passed, I guess, the first entry,
so we're gonna turn around and get on your side.
- [Man] Roger that.
- Thank you very much. - Roger, Roger.
(upbeat music)
- [Narrator] On seagoing vessels,
communication with other ships,
the Coast Guard and ports and marinas
is mainly by VHF radio.
To have the right to use a maritime radio,
a seaman absolutely has to have a radio operator's license.
A license certifies that the operator
knows all the standards for communication,
including global maritime distress and safety systems.
- [Narrator] The crew tie up the catamaran temporarily
at a gas station and go ashore to find a Volvo Penta dealer
to confirm the warranty on the motor
after the first 50 hours of navigation.
- [Narrator] They take the opportunity
to read the weather bulletin displayed in the port,
combining it with their own information
to generate their own interpretation of the forecast
to help them over the next few days.
While looking for the dealer,
the crew notice a very Spanish custom.
The mid-day siesta, which can last up to two hours
and gives many Spaniards a chance to rest
in the arms of Morpheus.
(singing in foreign language)
That means they can forget looking for the dealer
and explore a few streets in the city of A Coruna.
This brief stopover is a chance for the crew
to experience the gorgeous landscapes
of this former Roman territory,
impressively cloaked in cliffs, dunes,
ocean beaches and historic lighthouses,
not to mention a large fishing port and an industrial port.
The tower of Hercules,
situated at the entrance of the port of A Coruna
and built by the Roman emperors
and renovated in 1791, is the oldest lighthouse in the world
to have the survived from Roman times.
At A Coruna they say that history is told
by the buildings and monuments that make up the landscape.
A short walk through the streets laden with history
will take you through the last 20 centuries.
From the classical era to the Middle Ages,
to the baroque period to our own time.
(bright music)
Back on the boat, Bernard shares a few tricks
for lassoing a cleat, a very practical skill
when the catamaran ties up at dock.
The great sailboat is very quickly tied up solidly
and ready to have a peaceful night
on the waters of the A Coruna marina.
The crew has been looking forward to this night,
when they can lower their guard in the darkness,
soak up the warmth of Spain, celebrate
and drop a poor unfortunate mango into the water.
But you know our sailors, waste not, want not.
Especially fresh fruit.
Bernard uses his lassoing skills
to recover the precious mango successfully.
(group exclaims)
- [Narrator] That evening, supper is a hearty meal
of comfort food.
Everything is calm at the marina,
but on the catamaran, Les 4 Voiles,
even doing the dishes turns into a fiesta.
(laughing)
Perhaps the festive, nocturnal rhythm of A Coruna
is keeping them awake,
but they will still need to turn in early
because the weather forecast
dictates that their stopover in A Coruna will be short.
The next morning will see an ideal weather window,
which for them means light winds, but no storms.
So the crew will finally be able to head south.
The next morning the catamaran was dancing along
over the calmest of seas accompanied by patchy fog,
scrambled eggs and a colorful atmosphere
still worthy of Spain.
To everyone's surprise, the sea is oily,
that is there are no waves and very little wind.
It is a marvelous phenomenon to observe.
Even though sailors fear it as well,
without the wind, a ship has to rely on its motor
to go anywhere.
The crew takes the chance to do other things
and everyone pitches in
to desalt every corner of the vessel.
(speaking in foreign language)
Luc is keeping busy.
- [Narrator] The silence and solitude of the high seas
constitute a first experience for the family.
They are extremely rare, incomparable
and totally unforgettable.
For Bernard, the skipper in charge of the crossing,
these conditions are ideal and very reassuring
to keep everyone safe.
Another highlight of the way to Lisbon
is the huge number of dolphins.
This isn't really surprising
because of the many fish and seabirds in the area.
Dolphins usually travel in tight knit groups,
especially when they are hunting.
In antiquity, seafaring people credited them
with many feats such as guiding boats
that were lost in the storm or saving the shipwrecked.
Obviously today pods of dolphins bring great joy
and a certain level of comfort.
As they draw nearer to the coast of Portugal,
the air changes and they can even smell
the distinct odor of land,
different from the salt sea of air.
That evening the crew ends their day happily
with a punch worth of the Caribbean.
Of course no one goes overboard on the drinking
because nightfall is the time for extra zeal and vigilance.
(pensive music)
This time the night watch is split in half,
one person at the helm and the other with a light
at the prow of the catamaran.
As they approach the coast,
the crew is entering the Portuguese fishing zone
and has to pay close attention
to potential obstacles at sea,
such as crab traps or fishing nets.
Happily, there is nothing in their way tonight.
Usually as a safety measure, Bernard forbids anyone
to walk on the hull of the boat at night.
It can be done during the day,
but only when attached to the safety harness
and after having advised the skipper.
You sail into Portugal via the mouth of the Tagus
the AIS system is very useful at this moment
because of the heavy maritime traffic,
as it distinguishes between ships at anchor
with zero velocity and ships that are moving.
The sunrise is timid, but allows the crew
to finally see the true colors of Portugal.
With Bernard at the helm,
Luc looks up the details of navigation in the region.
At Lisbon, the highest tides can reach 4.5 meters.
The tide is forecast to be rising as they arrive
and not exceed two meters before noon.
After 47 hours at sea with very little wind,
the gas tanks need to be filled.
So a stopover is planned in Portugal to gas up.
In general, you always need to allow
1/3 of fuel for the voyage out, 1/3 for the return trip
and 1/3 as a reserve.
Near the Portuguese coast,
Les 4 Voiles is following a navigation canal
that follows the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula
between Portugal and Spain.
The Tagus rises in Spain, crosses Portugal
and flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Lisbon.
The 25th of April Bridge is the first suspension bridge
over the Tagus.
Its metal structure is two kilometers long
and connects Lisbon
to the municipality of Almada to the south.
Fun fact, this bridge is known for being
particularly noisy.
The traditional asphalt
was replaced by metal platforms during construction.
And this explains the persistent noise and vibrations
heard when you pass over it.
After a brief exchange by VHF radio,
the crew finds a marina with vacant berths
near the 25th of April Bridge.
Navigation has to be very precise and careful
because the rising tide creates a current
at the entrance to the port.
Once successfully inside,
the lines and fenders are prepared.
(bright music)
- [Narrator] Finally, the sailors are on Portuguese soil.
People may think that Tuk Tuk tours are a tourist trap,
but in the case of Les 4 Voile, this local guided tour
is an ideal solution
to visit a maximum number of attractions
in the capital of Portugal in a limited time.
Their first brief stop is to explore downtown Lisbon.
The cobbled streets are home to several churches,
small boutiques, restaurants, local bakeries,
public fountains, museums and the Belem Tower,
an emblem of Portuguese heritage.
(bright guitar music)
The cathedrals are central aspects
of Portuguese memory and identity.
It's hard to say that you've visited the country
without setting foot in at least one
of these impressive buildings.
Silent witnesses to Portugal's religious
and architectural tradition.
Obviously you also have to take a spin
on one of Lisbon's famous trams.
Even if only to be able to say you've seen one in real life.
And here they are in the Cathedral of Lisbon,
the standard bearer
for a multitude of styles of architecture.
It's always worth a visit.
Lisbon isn't just cathedrals and monasteries, however.
Colorful signs, streets and buildings, restaurants,
boutiques, shooter stands and faience,
ceramics of every color, mix gracefully
to create a grandiose fresco.
With a different view of the city and its surroundings
awaiting at every street corner.
(thoughtful music)
Another richly historic venue,
The Jeronimos Monastery is also worth a visit.
Even if only for the pleasure
of seeing its Manueline architecture,
a style born of the fusion
of a multitude of cultures in the 15th century
under the reign of Manuel the first,
when Portugal was the greatest sea power in the world.
By the way, a visit to the Navy museum
is essential for anyone who wants to know more
about Portugal's maritime history.
Our explorers certainly don't pass up the opportunity.
The weather forecast is not favorable
for navigation for the next few days,
extending the stopover in Portugal indefinitely.
The adventurers decide to change marinas
and head northeast up the Tagus in search of a quieter place
to spend the coming nights.
(speaking in foreign language)
The extended stay in Portugal is an opportunity
to continue preparing for the main crossing
and to explore the country more.
Another lovely example of Manueline architecture
is the Belem Tower.
It was originally a defense system
and ceremonial entryway into Lisbon.
Our sailors are almost as excited to visit it
as to buy pasteis de belem in the next street.
These delicious Portuguese egg tarts are a treat
for all who eat them.
(thoughtful music)
The group also manages to contact a Volvo Penta dealer
to check the motors and confirm the warranty.
A Portuguese technician visits them on the boat
to assist them.
(motor hums)
A jellyfish even tried to help.
After nearly a week in Portugal,
a weather window finally opens.
For now, they will head south to the Canary Islands
or Madeira, a final decision not having been made.
Everything will depend on the weather,
the real power behind their adventure.
(tense music)
The crew uses the winds from a small depression
to gain speed.
The wind is in their sails,
but on leaving the Tagus, they have to pass through
what Bernard called the washing machine,
an area of irregular waves caused by a counter current
where the rising tide
meets the natural outflow from the river.
These waves are amplified
because the water in this area is shallow.
Once past the shallows, the waves immediately subside.
What a difference.
With the rain and fresh air, the calm is good for everyone,
especially Chloe.
She was mildly seasick and had to stay in her bunk
for almost 24 hours to recover.
During this time, heavy rain keeps
France, Luc and Bernard busy.
They meet the first cold front of their adventure,
accompanied by a squall.
Sailors use the term squall to designate a shower
accompanied by sudden gusts of wind.
Most squalls are short,
but this one lasted more than 30 minutes.
So they start south in the cold and damp.
The watches at the helm
are spent in sometimes torrential rain.
At least the wind is not in short supply
and the catamaran reaches person record speeds
of nearly 13 knots.
(gentle music)
Sailing conditions are much better the next day.
It is the calm after the storm.
After checking the forecast and consulting the skipper,
they head for the archipelago of Madeira.
They will spend 96 hours at sea,
their longest nonstop leg so far,
before sighting the shores of Porto in the distance.
There is no need to change flags this time,
because Madeira is actually
an autonomous region of Portugal.
The main island,
which bears the same name as the archipelago,
is over 600 kilometers west of the coast or Morocco.
The island of Madeira,
also known as the Pearl of the Atlantic and Flower Island,
is a true paradise of lush, fertile mountains
and is the perfect last stop before crossing the Atlantic.
The catamaran heads to the Port of Funchal.
Funchal is the capital of Madeira
and owes its name to a wild aromatic plant
that grew in abundance on the island
when it was discovered, the fennel.
With its large bay, this location has ideal sea access.
Funchal has become a famed maritime stopping point
for navigators and an important trading site
on the Atlantic.
- [Narrator] At first glance, the pleasure port is colorful
and of medium size.
It shelters a few fishing boats,
enormous cargo ships and most of all,
several other sailboats stopping over as well.
- [Narrator] The catamaran came to rest beside a sailboat
and its Norwegian family who have taken a sabbatical
to sail the seven seas for 12 months.
- [Narrator] This volcanic island has steep slopes
that are vivid green, contrasting with the bright hues
of the residents' houses.
Not knowing how long they will be in Madeira,
the crew members try a local bus tour
that takes them around the most beautiful sights
of the island.
(thoughtful music)
A number of public spaces and parks
are scattered throughout Funchal and across the island.
The Portuguese influence shows in the ceramic mosaics
and the smell of delicious pastries.
Madeira is home to a number of native species
of flowers and plants.
Unique species found nowhere else in the world.
(bright music)
The Forest of Laurissilva, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
is one of the rarest pearls in Madeira.
This native forest occupies over 2/3 of the landscape
and is home to unique vegetation
that survived the last ice age.
Cabo Girao is known for the spectacular views that it offers
to anyone who wants to look.
This highest cliff in Europe,
found on the south coast of the island,
is almost 590 meters high.
Paragliders share the sky with birds.
The summit is home to a local market,
captivating music and a small Portuguese cafe
for those who want to rest.
But this short stop is almost over.
And the crew has to hurry back to the boat
and start preparing for the great crossing.
- [Narrator] At dawn the next day, they leave Madeira
for the final stop on their adventure, the Caribbean.
(gentle music)
- [Narrator] On the first day,
the priority is getting their sea legs
and having their bodies adapt to being on the water.
Before taking to the high seas,
Bernard makes a general inspection and adjusts the sails.
Luc adjusts the mainsail and the genoa,
making the navigation comfortable for all.
The crossing of the Atlantic from Madeira to Saint Martin
should take 20 days.
In total, 2632 nautical miles separate the two points.
And the main goal is to sail south to the trade winds.
The trade winds are regular winds that blow
from east to west in intertropical regions.
They are what you need to catch
to truly have the wind in your sails
and idea weather conditions when heading to the Caribbean.
(thoughtful music)
The first day of the transatlantic crossing
is silent on the catamaran.
The crew is thoughtful before the unknown
and the longest stage of their adventure.
This is the real thing and there is no turning back.
They are really under way.
The next time the anchor is dropped,
it will sink into the soft crystalline sands
of the warm waters around Saint Martin.
Bernard takes advantage of a fine day
to introduce the sextant
to the other crew members.
The sextant is a navigation instrument
that can stand in for a broken GPS system.
In other words it uses angles
to calculate the ship's position.
The first week of sailing is the hardest.
Lightning storms, depressions and squalls
hit one after the other.
Clothing is very damp and dries with difficulty.
Morale is finally affected as well.
(happy music)
- [Narrator] But intimate contact with the ocean,
sunsets, the Milky Way, phosphorescent seaweed
and marine mammals are there to remind them
of the marvels of their adventure.
They realize how little one needs to be happy.
In the second week, the crew endure variable weather
that switches from fair to foul and back again.
The sky is sometimes gray but there is no lack of wind
and the catamaran flies along
at a very satisfactory cruising speed.
During the crossing, the great motivation
is watching the number of nautical miles remaining drop.
Bernard also monitors changes in longitude
to keep the watches in tune with the sunrises.
As you go west, the sun rises later every 15 degrees.
Watches become regular and natural.
Two by two, for three hour periods,
the two watches spell each other off at the helm.
Bernard awards days off when someone needs one.
Perhaps because of a temporary health problem,
to raise someone's morale or as a preventative measure
to recharge their batteries.
With four people, it's easy enough to adapt.
At about 1300 nautical miles,
the crew lets down its guard and celebrates.
They are in the middle of the Atlantic.
Below, almost 4000 meters separate them
from the mid atlantic ridge, where new sea floor is formed.
The sight of a first hunting seabird is a reminder
that they are nearing land.
(speaking in foreign language)
That night Bernard prepares the food,
a mahi-mahi having been caught,
Bernard prepares a theme supper
and unveils his hidden talents as a sushi chef.
It warms everyone's heart.
- [Narrator] It's official, the Caribbean is getting closer.
The main clue is the thermometer.
The sun is hotter and the water bluer.
The skipper is mainly worried about
making the last 1000 nautical miles.
The countdown is on.
There's almost no wind.
So the crew lowers the sails and jumps overboard.
- [Narrator] Indulging oneself in the ocean depths,
swimming in a bottomless cobalt blue sea,
definitely something to add to your bucket list.
The last week resembles a luxury cruise:
rest, sun and fair winds await.
A perfect cocktail for enjoying their final moments at sea.
Everyone takes advantage of the opportunity
to prepare mentally for the imminent arrival
at the island of Saint Martin.
Their passion for the sea only increases.
Nearing the end of the crossing, the family,
having learned so much from the supervision
and advice of their skipper,
is quite independent and skilled at many tasks.
In the 60 or so days from La Rochelle,
Bernard has tried to share
over 30 years of sailing experience,
marine meteorology, tools of navigation,
adjusting the sails, safety on the high seas,
and how to react to the many unexpected things
the sea can throw at you.
He has every reason to be proud
of the results of this teaching.
There is still a lot to learn and apply,
but the experience, extraordinary in itself
is enriching and unforgettable.
All you amateur sailors make sure
that you have such a good coach before taking on
this sort of crossing.
(hopeful music)
On the list of things to do when setting foot on land,
eat fresh vegetables and fruits.
During their last days on the ocean,
the crew is greeted by a magnificent whale.
- [Narrator] On the 4th of December,
dawn reveals the first curves of the West Indies
on the horizon.
The island straight ahead represents a dream coming true
and the end of an adventure,
as well as leaving room for the next dreams.
After all, the Atlantic has been very kind to them.
And the crew owe its deep respect.
Now France, Luc and Chloe can be rocked
by something else besides the waves
and moved to a Caribbean rhythm.
As for Bernard, now that his mission
of crossing the Atlantic is over, he can return to Canada,
while the family discovers the Caribbean waters.
(relaxing music)
Saint Martin is not really your typical Caribbean island.
It's divided into two countries,
one of which owes its culture to France
and the other to the Netherlands.
It's a cultural melting pot
with over 100 nationalities living together on the island.
Les 4 Voiles was able to visit all the bays and beaches,
not to mention the land based delights
open to Saint Martiners
and to taste the small island's different flavors.
The tasty Caribbean cuisine and friendly atmosphere
charm tourists and travelers alike.
So this destination became the group's home base
to continue to explore the Caribbean.
The epic voyage ends at Marina Fort Louis in Marigot,
the capital of the French territory of Saint Martin.
(man speaking in foreign language)
- [Narrator] It's a very warm welcome,
matching the warmth of the locals.
Not for nothing is Saint Martin known
as the friendly island.
For months, they've been preparing
for this glorious adventure on the Atlantic Ocean
and dreaming of ending up in Saint Martin
in the Lesser Antilles.
Philipsburg is the capital of Saint Martin,
a constituent country of the kingdom of the Netherlands
and the home port for enormous cruise ships.
Pleasure boaters arriving here can enjoy a lively waterfront
with its many nightclubs and restaurants
a panoplie of shops, beaches
and numerous tourist attractions to visit.
(upbeat music)
With over 70 kilometers of shoreline,
this magical island nestled between the Atlantic Ocean
and the Caribbean Sea offers an unbeatable diversity
of seascapes and beaches straight from paradise.
The 37 beaches along the coast
are of all sorts, wild, peaceful, lively, frenzied
and with their own rhythm.
In short each one is unique and better than all the rest.
The arch of the Antilles is a veritable paradise
for pleasure boaters.
There are so many small islands
that cruises are never very long
before you discover a new island
and fall under the spell of its inhabitants,
colors and flavors.
The Antilles are home to numerous nature parks
and protected marine areas.
These measures are used
to reduce the impacts of mass tourism
and to maintain ecosystem balance.
Since Ile Fourchue is a marine reserve,
moorings are available.
A mooring is an object such as a concrete slab
that is heavy enough and placed at a strategic spot
on the sea floor.
A chain or line attaches it to a buoy
to which boats can tie up for the night.
This procedure limits the number of boats
that can visit the island
and helps restore the sea grasses too.
Ile Fourchue is a tiny desert island
two nautical miles offshore from Anse de Colombier,
accessible only by sea.
It is only a few kilometers off of Saint Barthelemy
and used to be known as Five Island
because it has five crests.
Its steep cliffs, dry land vegetation
and red soil scattered with holes and cracks
make it ideal terrain for hikers,
so long as you are careful of the cactus
and the crumbling rock that adds spice to any expedition.
At the foot of the cliffs, turquoise water laps the rocks
all around the island.
On the horizon, you can see Saint Martin,
Anguilla and Saint Barthelemy.
And a little farther away, the island of Saba,
Saint Eustatius, St. Kitts and Neves.
This is without any doubt
one of the loveliest hikes you can take
in the west Indies in a unique and protected environment.
Saint Barthelemy is also part of the Lesser Antilles
and the island is also commonly know as St. Barts.
It has its own spicy nature and stands out
as a destination unlike any other.
Beaches, luxury villas, local cuisine,
high end stores and pleasure sailing tourism
are its main characteristics.
(happy music)
Pinel Island, uninhabited,
but visited by tourists for day trips,
is covered with many bays and beaches.
The main one is quite long and ideal for young families
because of its shallow, clear, turquoise water.
It's probably one of the most beautiful crystalline beaches
on Saint Martin.
During the day you have to walk around
the Pinel Island protected nature site
where you will see luxurious and diverse flora
and very special fauna.
The bushes are home to lizards and iguanas
that love to bask in the sun.
(thoughtful music)
It's also an opportunity to enjoy the lounge atmosphere
beside the water, sip exotic cocktails,
and try out one of the few local restaurants.
A local store will delight seekers
of typical Caribbean souvenirs, colorful clothes,
dresses and hammocks and handmade wooden decorations
are just waiting to be slipped into your luggage.
It is also a favorite spot for sailors.
At 4:00 p.m. the tourists desert the beach
and the flat calm enchants those who are seeking solitude.
The island may be tiny, but it is magnificent and friendly.
(cheering)
Maho Bay is one of the most
dynamic must see attractions of Saint Martin.
From the beach you can watch planes taking off and landing
at very close quarters.
You have to be careful as many objects fly off into the sea.
You can also observe the spectacle at a distance
from a nearby patio while tasting delicious hors d'oeuvres
and savoring a free dinner drink.
The air is sweet this evening
and the crew takes the opportunity
to look back on their adventure.
The wind, finest of energy sources,
has allowed them to explore the Caribbean
and the west coast of Europe, starting in La Rochelle.
But that same wind in the fall of 2017, unleashed itself
as a tropical storm, then as a category 5 hurricane,
creating devastation
that changed the face of the West Indies.
Each year between June 1st and the end of November,
the cyclone season in the North Atlantic
affects the tourist areas.
The brunt hits boating because so many pleasure vessels
are tied up or stored during the season.
In 2017, the cyclone season was marked
by a total of 10 successive hurricanes.
Six of which were major.
The most significant were Harvey, Irma,
Maria and Ophelia.
(sad music)
Hurricane Irma, which got the most media attention,
was also the most powerful ever recorded
since Hurricane Allen in 1980,
with sustained winds of 295 kilometers per hour.
It was the first hurricane to remain a category 5
for over 70 hours.
With its 500 kilometer diameter
and an estimated area of 335,000 kilometers squared,
this natural catastrophe ravaged the island
of Barbuda, Saint Barthelemy,
Saint Martin, Anguilla and the Virgin Islands,
Northern Cuba and part of Florida.
To the damage caused by the wind's power and speed
must be added the storm surge
that raised the level of the sea by one to two meters.
This was especially devastating for the Antilles
and the Caribbean.
So were the torrential rains that caused heavy flooding.
The cost of the damage totaled billions of dollars
and many lives were lost as the cyclone season blew through.
By that time, France, Luc and Chloe
were already back in Canada,
where they hoped for only the best
for these islands that they had come to know
and that had been so generous with them.
One thing reassured them, the people of the Caribbean
are strong and resilient before a force of nature
that can never be controlled.
Some of the islands have been totally devastated in the past
but their inhabitants have always recovered from hurricanes.
The priority is to get back up,
to help each other and to rebuild.
Such events force us to look at the truth.
We have to take environmental concerns into account.
This also touches the way we travel.
We must always respect the environment when we are visiting
and help as much as possible those who live
with the risks of nature, but who continue to welcome us
with open arms to the marvels of their seas and lands.
(dramatic music)
(thoughtful music)